The Rise of Labubu: How a “Ugly-Cute” Toy is Redefining Global Consumerism

From Macau to Paris, consumers are lining up at Pop Mart stores to purchase Labubu dolls, marking a significant shift in toy-buying trends. At a recent Yongle auction, a 131cm mint-colored Labubu fetched an impressive 1.08 million RMB, while a limited-edition brown version sold for 820,000 RMB.

Celebrities, royals, and trendsetters worldwide are fueling the frenzy for this unique doll.

Labubu, a creation of Hong Kong artist Kasing Lung, is an “ugly-cute” elf-like figure that has garnered a global following. This phenomenon, driven by Gen Z's emphasis on emotional value, is transforming the consumer landscape in international metropolises. But what exactly lies behind Labubu’s soaring popularity, and how is it impacting the cities we live in?

Contesting the City's Aesthetic

In Shenzhen's Futian CBD, a giant Labubu installation with its signature pointed ears and fangs stands in stark contrast to the minimalist architecture of the surrounding office buildings. In Shanghai's Anfu Road, Gen Z consumers participate in “doll modification workshops,” customizing Labubus with cyberpunk aesthetics.

Meanwhile, factories in Yiwu are leveraging cross-border e-commerce to deliver doll clothing to international markets.

Traditionally, toy aesthetics have been dominated by sweet, cute, and well-behaved characters, such as Disney's big-eyed figures and Hello Kitty's rounded design. These iconic characters have shaped conventional perceptions of toy aesthetics for a long time. However, Labubu challenges these established norms with its distinct appearance.

Lung stated that he purposefully retained the imperfection of nine pointed teeth, mirroring young people’s resistance to being defined by standards. Despite initial doubts about its mass appeal, the Labubu series has witnessed remarkable sales growth. In 2023, the Monsters series, which includes Labubu, generated approximately 368 million RMB in revenue, demonstrating significant market potential.

Labubu's unique style has resonated with a niche audience, paving the way for its subsequent boom. From major Chinese cities to Osaka, Seoul, and Paris, a growing number of young people are drawn to quirky aesthetics, reflecting a global trend.

Social media platforms are filled with users sharing modified Labubu dolls, showcasing a spectrum of styles from tanned skin to rhinestones and gothic makeup. This co-creation by users has become a driving force behind the evolution of Labubu's aesthetic.

The Role of Marketing and Celebrities

Pop Mart has utilized social media and trend-culture marketing to promote Labubu's unique aesthetic. Collaborations with influencers and tutorials have generated significant buzz on platforms like TikTok and Xiaohongshu, resulting in over 1 billion views for Labubu-related content.

Celebrity endorsements have further amplified Labubu's popularity. In Seoul's Myeongdong district, a large advertisement featuring BLACKPINK's Lisa with Labubu is prominently displayed, competing with cosmetic brand posters. Rihanna's images carrying a Labubu accessory in New York's SoHo art galleries have also become popular attractions.

This combination of celebrity influence and strategic marketing embeds Labubu into urban landmarks, bridging the gap between art and commerce to reshape young consumers' aesthetic perceptions.

Love or Speculation?

Long lines outside Pop Mart stores reflect the speculative nature of the Labubu craze. Scalpers exploit algorithm loopholes to snatch up merchandise online, creating a divide between those who queue physically and those using technology. The secondary market sees Labubu hidden models selling for ten times their original price, with some rare items reaching thirty times their value.

This has led to the emergence of toy speculators who operate from homes in Guangzhou or offices in Chengdu, highlighting the financialization of consumer goods. While Pop Mart has implemented measures to curb scalping, such as purchase limits and online authentication, these efforts have had limited success.

Consumers purchase Labubu for various reasons. Some are driven by genuine affection for the doll's emotional value and artistic appeal. Others view Labubu as an investment opportunity, seeking financial gain through resale.

The Emotional Value Proposition

Labubu's appeal lies in its ability to provide emotional solace in today's fast-paced, high-pressure environment. As one collector noted, Looking at its crooked smile after working overtime until dawn makes even the most annoying clients seem less awful”.

The concept of emotional value has become increasingly important in consumer choices. Consumers are looking for products that resonate with them on an emotional level, and Labubu has successfully tapped into this desire by offering a non-traditional aesthetic that some find comforting and relatable.

The Future of Labubu and Consumer Trends

Labubu's global success also involves localization strategies. In Bangkok, Labubu dolls are dressed in traditional Thai attire, while in Tokyo, they sport lucky cat costumes. This adaptability to different cultural contexts underscores the complex interplay of global and local consumer cultures.

While the Labubu craze may be subject to speculation and hype, its impact on consumerism and urban culture is undeniable. The next Labubu is waiting to be discovered, and the consumer revolution it sparks will continue to reshape our understanding of modern life.

The key to success lies in creating authentic emotional connections that resonate with consumers, rather than solely focusing on resale value and hype.

Ultimately, the emotional value derived from connecting with Labubu goes beyond mere transactions and resides in the shared experiences and feelings it evokes.